I’ve always found spiritual solace in nature.

My preferred place of worship is the kelp forest in which I’ve spent many a Sunday morning suited up in dive gear. A coral reef will do in a pinch; it’s hard not to believe in a Higher Power when you’re snorkeling with green sea turtles, which I’ve done in the past at Kahalu’u Beach Park in Kona.

Kahalu’u Beach Park

This trip I briefly explored the land side of the park early one morning, and discovered the magnificent Kuemanu Heiau, an ancient place of worship that is still very much in operation, judging from the offerings placed there.

Kuemanu Heiau

Right next to it is a diminutive Catholic church.

Church at Kahalu’u

In spite of the little structure’s charm, I found its proximity to the heiau — the symbol of the ancient religion that Christian missionaries set about to eradicate — more than a little unsettling.