Category: Archaeology

Iceland Highlight #1: The National Museum

If your time in Reykjavik is limited, skip the Saga Museum, which is a funky-smelling waxworks, and go straight to The National Museum of Iceland.

The permanent exhibition takes you on a journey through the 1200 years of the country’s history. Remarkable artifacts help tell the story from Viking settlement through the Black Death to the country’s current leading role in renewable energy research.

It’s one of the stops on the Reykjavik Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus Tour, which gives a recorded commentary as it drives you on an overview of the city, stopping at other spots, such as the Harpa Concert Hall and the Harbor.

China’s Terra Cotta Warriors Came to Seattle

Some friends and I had a chance to visit the traveling exhibit of China’s amazing Terra Cotta Warriors. It was fascinating.

Excavations have been ongoing for 40 years, and there are many decades of work still ahead. Several relatively small pits have been opened on a site that measures 22 square miles. It will be fascinating to see what more time reveals.

My Favorite Finds at Paradise Bay and Eskimo Bay

When we landed at both Eskimo Bay and, earlier in the trip, Paradise Bay, most of my shipmates headed off on a hike. A few of us stayed with Carol and did a casual surface-survey near a few of the houses.

Carol takes notes

Carol takes notes on each find: its location, its condition, a description and photos. She can review notes from past visits to track what has changed at a site.

We hoped to find artifacts that Carol hadn’t seen before, and she was also looking for artifacts noted on previous visits, to see how they were weathering.

wooden stick

Wood is incredibly scarce in this tree-free zone above the Arctic circle. This sharpened stick would have been especially prized because of the knot near one end, which was believed to have supernatural meaning.

It turns out I have a good eye for that sort of thing.  Although I don’t have the patience to make a career of it, I found it fascinating to walk slowly and carefully, bent over to scan the ground for anything that looked like it might have been fashioned by a human hand.

Since trash was disposed of by heaping it just outside the houses, there was a surprising amount of broken bone scattered on the surface of the earth.

tooth sockets

A line of holes on this piece turns out to be the tooth sockets in part of a jawbone of a small mammal. Note the other shards of bone around it.

The primary tool for shaping bone was a bow-driven drill — the people who lived here hundreds of years ago didn’t have saws or knives — so I concentrated on looking for small, perfect holes.

round holes

These perfectly round holes were also created by a person. This shard that Carol found seems to have been part of something larger, or perhaps it was a practice piece.

sled runner

This other piece I found at Paradise Bay was probably part of a sled runner. Cord made of animal skin or sinew was laced through the holes so the piece could be lashed to the bottom of a sled.

Also at Paradise Bay, Robyn found a harpoon head. The notes and photos Carol takes of each find are eventually entered into a database that other archaeologists can access.

At Eskimo Bay I made my favorite find: part of what Carol thinks was an amulet! The striking slot-like hole first caught my eye, and when I got down closer I saw that the thin piece of flat bone was decorated by a pattern of lines formed by holes that were not drilled all the way through.

That night back on the ship, Carol used her photo and computer to do a digital re-creation of what the larger piece might have looked like. She thinks this is the upper part, and that another section would have hung below it, but we have no way of knowing what it looked like, or what meaning it carried.

To have found this delicate work of art, held it in my hand, and  imagined the lives of the people who created and used it hundreds of years ago was one of the highlights of my trip!

Bone Treasures in Eskimo Bay

I’ve been fascinated by archaeology since childhood, so getting the opportunity to explore a largely undisturbed site like the settlement at Eskimo Bay was one of the highlights of the trip for me.

With about 45 of us clustered around her (the kayakers arrived a bit later, in a sort of second wave), Carol pointed out the house remains. She coached us to look at the ground and walk gently around the settlement —  never-before-seen artifacts weather out of the ground every season, and it would be easy to crush one before it was even recognized.

She talked a bit about what life was like for the inhabitants, and pointed out features that made the site an ideal village location: a nearby stream, the flat shore good for landing kayaks, and the sheltered nooks and crannies that the people used as work shelters and lookouts.

snow knife

Carol points out a snow knife that has begun weathering out of the ground. Some of the knife is still embedded in the ground, so she covers it with a few flat stones between visits to protect it.

After a bit of searching, Carol found a couple of flat rocks that she remembered from her last visit to the site a couple years ago, and carefully moved them aside to reveal a bone implement — a “knife” used to harvest packed snow to be melted into water. We clustered around, oohed and aahed, and took photos.

snow knife closeup

The snow knife is fashioned from the jawbone of a musk ox. I associated snow knives with igloos, but Carol explained this knife was used to harvest snow or ice to be melted into water.

Meanwhile one of the other guides, Gary, retrieved a cache of bone artifacts that have been gathered over time and set them out on a lichen-covered boulder for us to admire.

worked bone with lens cap

This site is particularly rich in worked bone artifacts. In the past the artifacts have been added to a cached collection as they were found, and the collection is displayed for visitors.

delicate ends

I find the way the ends of these delicate pieces were worked intriguing. Are these tools, ornaments, game pieces, amulets…?

practice piece

Here’s a bit of bone I found with holes drilled through. Ancient Inupiak did not have metal knives or saws. A line of drill holes would perforate bone or shell so they could snap it into pieces. Maybe this was a practice piece?

Our Eskimobogt (Eskimo Bay) Excursion

One of my favorite Zodiac excursions was our stop at Eskimo Bay, a long-abandoned Inupiak settlement up a fjord in Greenland.  Carol, our archaeologist afloat, brought history and prehistory to life with wonderful stories.

There were clearly at least four pit houses in the settlement, one of which a stream is quickly eroding. The main room of each pit house was only a few meters in diameter, small enough that it was warmed in deepest winter by a single seal-fat lamp and the body heat of the ten or so people who called it home.

They had few possessions and did most of the work of survival outside the dwelling. There were no provisions for cooking in the home because they ate a lot of their fish and meat raw — fresh, bloody game actually provides many more nutrients, including vitamin C, than cooked flesh.

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