Category: Arctic Trip (page 2 of 2)

My Favorite Finds at Paradise Bay and Eskimo Bay

When we landed at both Eskimo Bay and, earlier in the trip, Paradise Bay, most of my shipmates headed off on a hike. A few of us stayed with Carol and did a casual surface-survey near a few of the houses.

Carol takes notes

Carol takes notes on each find: its location, its condition, a description and photos. She can review notes from past visits to track what has changed at a site.

We hoped to find artifacts that Carol hadn’t seen before, and she was also looking for artifacts noted on previous visits, to see how they were weathering.

wooden stick

Wood is incredibly scarce in this tree-free zone above the Arctic circle. This sharpened stick would have been especially prized because of the knot near one end, which was believed to have supernatural meaning.

It turns out I have a good eye for that sort of thing.  Although I don’t have the patience to make a career of it, I found it fascinating to walk slowly and carefully, bent over to scan the ground for anything that looked like it might have been fashioned by a human hand.

Since trash was disposed of by heaping it just outside the houses, there was a surprising amount of broken bone scattered on the surface of the earth.

tooth sockets

A line of holes on this piece turns out to be the tooth sockets in part of a jawbone of a small mammal. Note the other shards of bone around it.

The primary tool for shaping bone was a bow-driven drill — the people who lived here hundreds of years ago didn’t have saws or knives — so I concentrated on looking for small, perfect holes.

round holes

These perfectly round holes were also created by a person. This shard that Carol found seems to have been part of something larger, or perhaps it was a practice piece.

sled runner

This other piece I found at Paradise Bay was probably part of a sled runner. Cord made of animal skin or sinew was laced through the holes so the piece could be lashed to the bottom of a sled.

Also at Paradise Bay, Robyn found a harpoon head. The notes and photos Carol takes of each find are eventually entered into a database that other archaeologists can access.

At Eskimo Bay I made my favorite find: part of what Carol thinks was an amulet! The striking slot-like hole first caught my eye, and when I got down closer I saw that the thin piece of flat bone was decorated by a pattern of lines formed by holes that were not drilled all the way through.

That night back on the ship, Carol used her photo and computer to do a digital re-creation of what the larger piece might have looked like. She thinks this is the upper part, and that another section would have hung below it, but we have no way of knowing what it looked like, or what meaning it carried.

To have found this delicate work of art, held it in my hand, and  imagined the lives of the people who created and used it hundreds of years ago was one of the highlights of my trip!

Bone Treasures in Eskimo Bay

I’ve been fascinated by archaeology since childhood, so getting the opportunity to explore a largely undisturbed site like the settlement at Eskimo Bay was one of the highlights of the trip for me.

With about 45 of us clustered around her (the kayakers arrived a bit later, in a sort of second wave), Carol pointed out the house remains. She coached us to look at the ground and walk gently around the settlement —  never-before-seen artifacts weather out of the ground every season, and it would be easy to crush one before it was even recognized.

She talked a bit about what life was like for the inhabitants, and pointed out features that made the site an ideal village location: a nearby stream, the flat shore good for landing kayaks, and the sheltered nooks and crannies that the people used as work shelters and lookouts.

snow knife

Carol points out a snow knife that has begun weathering out of the ground. Some of the knife is still embedded in the ground, so she covers it with a few flat stones between visits to protect it.

After a bit of searching, Carol found a couple of flat rocks that she remembered from her last visit to the site a couple years ago, and carefully moved them aside to reveal a bone implement — a “knife” used to harvest packed snow to be melted into water. We clustered around, oohed and aahed, and took photos.

snow knife closeup

The snow knife is fashioned from the jawbone of a musk ox. I associated snow knives with igloos, but Carol explained this knife was used to harvest snow or ice to be melted into water.

Meanwhile one of the other guides, Gary, retrieved a cache of bone artifacts that have been gathered over time and set them out on a lichen-covered boulder for us to admire.

worked bone with lens cap

This site is particularly rich in worked bone artifacts. In the past the artifacts have been added to a cached collection as they were found, and the collection is displayed for visitors.

delicate ends

I find the way the ends of these delicate pieces were worked intriguing. Are these tools, ornaments, game pieces, amulets…?

practice piece

Here’s a bit of bone I found with holes drilled through. Ancient Inupiak did not have metal knives or saws. A line of drill holes would perforate bone or shell so they could snap it into pieces. Maybe this was a practice piece?

Our Eskimobogt (Eskimo Bay) Excursion

One of my favorite Zodiac excursions was our stop at Eskimo Bay, a long-abandoned Inupiak settlement up a fjord in Greenland.  Carol, our archaeologist afloat, brought history and prehistory to life with wonderful stories.

There were clearly at least four pit houses in the settlement, one of which a stream is quickly eroding. The main room of each pit house was only a few meters in diameter, small enough that it was warmed in deepest winter by a single seal-fat lamp and the body heat of the ten or so people who called it home.

They had few possessions and did most of the work of survival outside the dwelling. There were no provisions for cooking in the home because they ate a lot of their fish and meat raw — fresh, bloody game actually provides many more nutrients, including vitamin C, than cooked flesh.

Sea Ice is Polar Bear Habitat

We were disappointed not to see polar bears during the couple of days we explored Svalbard. Our next stop was Greenland, and I didn’t expect to see much fauna there. Wildlife is heavily hunted, so animals run away from the sound of engines.

But a sharp-eyed guide spotted motion amidst the sea ice as we approached the northeast coast of Greenland, and it turned out to be a lone polar bear. For about fifteen minutes his curiosity won out over his fear. He swam from one ice floe to another close to the bow of the Polar Pioneer, peering and sniffing and cocking his ears at us as we trained our lenses on him.

In the afternoon we had a more fleeting encounter with a polar bear family. The mother was obviously frightened by our appearance and kept her two cubs moving quickly away from us, so we did not try to prolong the visit.

These were our only encounters with polar bears during our 13 days afloat.

 

Icebergs Evoke Reverence

Cruising amidst icebergs in a Zodiac never got old during our Polar Pioneer trip.

The water was always calm, and our mood at the outset was generally reverent: a combination of awe at how these beauties come into the world, appreciation of their beauty, and gratitude that we were some of the privileged few in the world to lay eyes on them.

Bundled up in numerous layers of clothing, eight passengers sat lined up on the black rubber pontoons of the small boat, cameras in hand. The guide driving the boat stood at the stern and steered, periodically stopping the boat to kick a chunk of ice out from under the outboard motor’s propeller.

We craned our necks this way and that as we skirted large bergs and circled smaller ones. Cameras whirred and people ducked out of the way of each others’ photos. For minutes at a time the only words spoken were “Wow!” and “Oops, sorry!” when one of us ducked the wrong way and spoiled another’s shot.

After fifteen or twenty minutes, we got used to our remarkable situation: our butts a couple of feet above almost-frozen water, ice cubes as big as houses floating just boat-lengths away, the nearest other humans hundreds of miles away across an icecap or an ocean. Relaxing into our “new normal,” we started to point out to each other icebergs that were shaped like ducks, or sharks fins, or the Loch Ness Monster, our hushed tones gradually rising in volume.

For the next ninety minutes the guide maneuvered our inflatable boat into the best possible photo angles while simultaneously fielding our questions. When our guide couldn’t answer one of our inquiries — Why are some icebergs blue? Why is that one so pockmarked? Is it true that 90 percent of an iceberg is under the waterline? — he or she would call the other guides on the radio to tap their specialties. As time passed our voices and laughter got louder, and our faces and bodies got proportionally colder.

Around the two hour mark the guide would ask if any of us were cold. After ten or so minutes of denial, someone would finally admit they were starting to feel the chill. A couple of others would agree. The rest of us would confess that we wouldn’t mind access to our bathrooms, or that it must be getting close to lunch time.

With a knowing smile the guide would turn the nose of the Zodiac towards the Polar Pioneer.

And a reverent silence would again descend upon us explorers.

Not All Glaciers Look Alike

During Polar Pioneer’s explorations of the coasts of Svalbard and Greenland on our August 7-20th 2016 cruise, we sailed past dozens, perhaps hundreds, of glaciers. They were so varied in size, form, and even color that we never tired of looking at them…or taking photos!

A glacier forms when snow falls (and does not melt away) year after year after year and compacts into ice under its own weight. Over time this ice moves like a frozen-solid river, pushed along by its own weight. The glacier slides along on meltwater created by the friction of its movement over the rocks. The ice wears away chunks of mountain over time, forming miles-wide fjords and smaller u-shaped valleys.

When the enormous tongue of ice reaches water, it starts to float. The floating leading edge of the glacier moves faster than the ice still resting on the ground. Giant cracks and chasms are created as the waterborne part pulls away from the main body. Periodically huge blocks at the leading edge break off altogether as icebergs.

This “calving” of icebergs sounds like thunder, so loud that the thrum of a Zodiac’s 55hp motor is no match for it. We heard the sound again and again as we cruised along glacier faces, but we only saw a few calvings.

This was partly because the direction of the sound is deceptive as it bounces off water, mountains, the glacier front, and the icebergs all around our boat, some of which were the size of city blocks. And partly because the glacier fronts are miles wide, so it’s impossible to watch more than one small section.

The action is over in an instant, and unless you’re very close to the new iceberg, you can’t even make out its bobbing and rolling as it finds its new equilibrium.

A Bounce Through Longyearbyen, Svalbard

The second stop of my Arctic trip was about three scant hours in drizzly Longyearbyen, a town on the archipelago of Svalsbard, about halfway between Norway and the North Pole. Although it only has about 2000 residents, Longyearbyen is an important outpost for researchers working in the Arctic, and as such boasts a university and an international airport.

We flew into said international airport and were greeted by a stuffed polar bear in the baggage claim area. (The little stuffed dog on the carousel is my friend Trish’s other travel companion, Rufus, who features in many of her travel photos.)

Longyearbyen polar bear

Longyearbyen polar bear

A bus whisked us through the drizzle on a quick tour of the town, which was founded in the early 1900s on coal mines. At least one of these is still in production, and our guide pointed out the long line of supports used to hold up a system of cables that historically moved bins of coal from mine to shipyard. A couple of small herds of reindeer grazed near the side of the gravel road, so common that the guide didn’t even mention them until someone asked what they were! I didn’t bother trying to take photos from the bus, assuming that we would see other reindeer during our first few days of the voyage.

We eventually arrived at a dog yard where sled dogs, still an important part of the transportation equation in the Arctic, are housed. I had been warned since childhood that sled dogs were vicious and unpredictable and should never be approached. So I was amazed when the guide invited us to walk among the dogs, each of which was attached by a short chain to its own little house, and pet them! (The guide did warn us that they would probably jump on us and get our clothes dirty.)

Longyearbyen trapper's outpost

Longyearbyen trapper’s outpost

The pooches were eager for the attention and contact. As visitors petted and dogs wagged — just two days into my trek I already missed my beloved Boomer! — the guide explained how important sled dogs still are in the Arctic, where snowmobiles and other machines break down all too often. He explained that although they aren’t treated as pets, sled dogs are very well cared for and prized. In recent years many dog team handlers have abandoned the older, harsher ways with their dogs for a more positive-training approach.

The small buildings at the dog yard were replicas of huts that would be found in a trapper’s or hunter’s outpost, complete with reindeer racks and curing furs on the walls and several seal carcasses hanging out front. For the last couple of centuries, hunters and trappers in the Arctic have gotten from one hunting ground or trap to another via sled dogs during the snowy months, a practice that continues today. This outfit was situated high on a hill and had a magnificent view of a wide river valley.

Longyearbyen Museum

Longyearbyen Museum

Our second stop was at the Longyearbyen Museum. Located on the university campus, it’s a gem of a museum. Small in square footage but rich in artifacts, the history of the area — which is largely the story of the extraction of natural resources — unfolds in exhibits all around the perimeter of one open-plan exhibit hall. The interior space of the hall houses natural history exhibits. Visitors traipse across raised walkways to view stuffed Arctic animals resting on or under cleverly fabricated plastic ice floes. One of the highlights was a fabulous sculpture elucidating the Arctic food web. We only had about half an hour to visit; I would have been happier with half a day!

our first glimpse of Polar Pioneer

our first glimpse of Polar Pioneer

Our final stop was at the wharf to board Polar Pioneer, the little ice-strengthened former marine research vessel that was to be our home for the next two weeks.

The Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway

The first very short leg of my 3-week Arctic trip took place in Oslo, Norway. A flight delay meant my co-traveler Trish and I only had one afternoon. We chose to spend it at the Viking Ship Museum, and were not disappointed.

a Viking ship

a Viking ship

The museum building is laid out like a cross. Each of its four wings is a high-ceilinged, unadorned chamber. In three of those, every detail from the lighting to the wrought-iron chains around the exhibits focuses a visitor’s attention on the magnificent age-blackened wooden boats on display.

a Viking ship from above

a Viking ship from above

Laden with grave goods, the large boats were used in burials of high-ranking Vikings in three locations: Gokstad, Oseberg and Tune. You can walk around the boats, and view them from above via a corner balcony. The viewing angles and close proximity give you a chance to appreciate the decorative carvings and functional details, such as the covers that slid into place over one of the boat’s oar holes when the sail was raised.

a sledge pull shows intricate carving

a sledge pull shows intricate carving

The grave goods in the display cases of the fourth chamber came from the Viking ship burials and other Viking tombs. Objects range from large and ornately carved sledges drawn by dogs; to everyday items such as buckets and weapons; to decorative finery including embroidery done with gold thread. Interpretive signage in several languages explains the origins and uses of the items.

grave goods included buckets

grave goods included buckets

I was surprised by the intricate decorative carving displayed by many of the wooden objects, including the heads of several mythological beasts. Researchers aren’t sure what purpose the fantastical animal heads may have served for the Vikings; they are too small to have been mounted on the prows of Viking ships.

carved animal head

carved animal head

If you’re ever in Olso, put a trip to the Viking Ship Museum at the top of your must-see list.

a Viking ship's stern

a Viking ship’s stern

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