Cruising amidst icebergs in a Zodiac never got old during our Polar Pioneer trip.
The water was always calm, and our mood at the outset was generally reverent: a combination of awe at how these beauties come into the world, appreciation of their beauty, and gratitude that we were some of the privileged few in the world to lay eyes on them.
Bundled up in numerous layers of clothing, eight passengers sat lined up on the black rubber pontoons of the small boat, cameras in hand. The guide driving the boat stood at the stern and steered, periodically stopping the boat to kick a chunk of ice out from under the outboard motor’s propeller.
We craned our necks this way and that as we skirted large bergs and circled smaller ones. Cameras whirred and people ducked out of the way of each others’ photos. For minutes at a time the only words spoken were “Wow!” and “Oops, sorry!” when one of us ducked the wrong way and spoiled another’s shot.
After fifteen or twenty minutes, we got used to our remarkable situation: our butts a couple of feet above almost-frozen water, ice cubes as big as houses floating just boat-lengths away, the nearest other humans hundreds of miles away across an icecap or an ocean. Relaxing into our “new normal,” we started to point out to each other icebergs that were shaped like ducks, or sharks fins, or the Loch Ness Monster, our hushed tones gradually rising in volume.
For the next ninety minutes the guide maneuvered our inflatable boat into the best possible photo angles while simultaneously fielding our questions. When our guide couldn’t answer one of our inquiries — Why are some icebergs blue? Why is that one so pockmarked? Is it true that 90 percent of an iceberg is under the waterline? — he or she would call the other guides on the radio to tap their specialties. As time passed our voices and laughter got louder, and our faces and bodies got proportionally colder.
Around the two hour mark the guide would ask if any of us were cold. After ten or so minutes of denial, someone would finally admit they were starting to feel the chill. A couple of others would agree. The rest of us would confess that we wouldn’t mind access to our bathrooms, or that it must be getting close to lunch time.
With a knowing smile the guide would turn the nose of the Zodiac towards the Polar Pioneer.
And a reverent silence would again descend upon us explorers.
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